After going to Rio de Janeiro and Ilha Grande in 2015, we had intended to come back to Brazil – with a particular interest in seeing Sao Paulo and the Pantanal. We were also keen to revisit the Atlantic Coast. After a lot of internet research, we ended up having out trip put together by the extremely helpful Simon Williams at Humboldt Travel. This proved to be an excellent choice – everything worked seamlessly.
We landed in Guarulhos International Airport (São Paulo) early on a chilly August morning – having just left a UK heatwave behind, we were slightly surprised to be picked up by a guide wearing a puffer jacket and a woolly scarf. But the weather warmed up in the course of our five-hour transfer over the mountains to Paraty on Brazil’s Emerald Coast.
Casa Turquesa
In Paraty we stayed at the wonderful Casa Turquesa close to the harbour. The old house had been turned into a boutique hotel with a small number of rooms, a library and an inner courtyard with a swimming pool. There were orchids everywhere – and the caipirinhas were little works of art.
The Town
The old town regularly floods at high tide. Our hotel helpfully provided wellies!
Cachaça is very much in evidence all over the town. The local variation on a caipirinha is called a Jorge Amado.
There is a vast array of boats moored around Paraty.
The closest beach to Paraty is Pontal Beach.
Birding around Paraty with Luis da Mata
We spent a day out with an excellent birding guide. Luis only speaks Portuguese (and we don’t), but despite that we did not have any problems communicating. We saw many gorgeous birds, though not the Roseate Spoonbills that we had been hoping for. However, that did not matter, since we saw plenty of them in the Pantanal later on the trip.
Jabaquara Beach
At the next beach along from Paraty, we went out in a canoe to search for the elusive Spoonbills. We were slightly nervous of the canoe capsizing with all the camera equipment, but all went well.
Boat Trip with Max
We went on a day trip with Max (Tradição Boat Trips). Max is German and speaks excellent English. We did see Turtles, but annoyingly didn’t manage to get a photo.
Birds
A rocky island in the bay of Paraty is teeming with birds.
Agouti
We were really pleased to get close enough to be able to photograph this agouti from the boat.
Marmoset
We also saw a marmoset while we were out with Luis, but this one posed more nicely.
Lula Beach
Max pulled in at this beautiful beach where we relaxed and had a swim.
Lunch Stop: Restaurante do Hiltinho, Ilha do Algodão
Max played his flute as we drew close to the restaurant. Reviews of the place are rather mixed, with some complaining that the service was slow, so maybe that was Max’s way of telling them that we were coming. More likely, he just felt like playing his flute. Whatever the reason, we had an excellent experience with great food in the lovely surroundings of the restaurant. Best fried bananas on the whole trip – and interesting artwork too!
And back to Paraty…
Peregrinamur 